By Tony Doerrer
Acrochordus javanicus, more commonly known as the Elephant Trunk Snake or the File Snake, is a fully aquatic, non-venomous species. Acrochordus javanicus are often imported from Indonesia. Roughly six inches at birth, they have the potential to reach an average adult size of five to eight feet. With scales that have a similar texture to a metal file to its uniquely long tongue, these snakes are impressive creatures. Found in brackish waters, their aquatic nature requires the typical keeper to take a different approach to care.
These amazing and often misunderstood creatures have fascinated us for years. However, a deep dive into the scientific literature left us with little information on how to properly care for them. So, like all tasks worth doing, we had to start from scratch and that required a return to basics. Starting with the general care sheet criteria, we began to build the ideal aquatic environment based on first-hand observations. However, this proved to be difficult as building a self-contained ecosystem that would allow Acrochordus javanicus to thrive presented some obstacles not common for other reptiles.
The first obstacle was understanding an aquarium. As a reptile that is predominantly water-based, they spend so little time on land that their bodies cannot support their weight out of water for very long. This meant getting the details of the proper environment was key. Although setups may vary, we have found that the stability of water temperature is the most important environmental factor to consider. Depending on set up size, the standard aquarium heaters can easily accommodate the water temperatures needed. With published records recommending water temperatures between 84-86 degrees Fahrenheit, we have currently settled on a water temperature between 82-83 degrees Fahrenheit to account for the summer heat’s impact on the aquarium. In our experience, the higher temperatures did not provide enough of a buffer for the summer’s natural ambient temperature spikes. By dropping the desired maintained temperatures, we have observed adults and juveniles alike thriving.
The next factor we had to consider in caring for Acrochordus javanicus was water quality. There seems to be some debate in the literature as to what pH balance is best, but one thing that the available care sheets agree on is that this should be a priority. Certain articles emphasize the necessity of maintaining a pH level of 5 as well as the requirement for introducing tannins. With our local water pH levels at 7, we were constantly struggling to reach a pH level of 5, let alone maintaining that level long term. Eventually we stopped checking the levels and determined the low requirement might not be as critical as emphasized. While this is a controversial stance, rest assured that the health of these snakes is our top priority. Today, we do not track pH levels, but we do continue to include and add tannins in our setups. We utilize various aquatic woods and leaves to introduce tannins. We removed the carbon sponge pads from all filtration to prevent polishing the water. We have used various over-the-counter aquarium additives to maintain target pH levels and tannins with success. Aside from the aesthetic appearance of the water coloration and decaying natural materials, the tannins leaching out help to combat bacteria growth in the aquatic environment.
When setting up the enclosure, we start with the assumption that we will not see the snake(s) often. Known to stress easily, their setups are often filled with furniture restricting any visual observation for extended periods. Because Acrochordus javanicus breathe air, we start each setup with roughly 50-70% water depth. The overall water depth will vary based on enclosure and snake sizes, just realize the distance from where they sleep and a breath of air should be reasonable. Substrate can be as simple as a bare bottom or as elaborate as a planted aquarium. Although we are personally working on a planted pond setup, we prefer a sand substrate. We utilize the bare bottom method with smaller setups but personally enjoy the natural sand look. Depending on the sand depths provided, Acrochordus javanicus can be seen burrowed along branches and rocks. With this in mind, we prefer to use ghost wood or manzanita logs in our setups. Aside from the natural benefits of tannins leaching out, the larger sections of wood provide a sense of security.
Including a number of hides is another way of providing a sense of security. The hides can be as simple as PVC sections or clay pots for juveniles but become more difficult for the larger snakes. The larger snakes are often strong enough to move just about anything put into the setup. Another method in providing a sense of security is plant coverage. While live plants look great, they can often be more difficult to maintain. Fake plants on the other hand are simple and come with a great deal of variety. Due to the set up only being 50-70% filled there is also room for adding live plants above the water line. Although mainly a visual preference, the roots of live plants do help filter the aquatic waste in the water.
The goal in striking a strong balance in developing your setup is providing an aquatic environment where the snake does not feel exposed. The more exposed Acrochordus javanicus feel, the more likely they are to be stressed, which can cause a variety of health problems. The most commonly reported health problem Acrochordus javanicus experience in captivity is a fungal infection called white spotting. Although common, the spotting is not entirely understood and is known to come and go between shed cycles. When the snake is in blue, entering a shed phase, the white spotting will be most apparent. After shedding and depending on the severity, the spotting can be seen in the shed skin. Visual presence on the snake is reduced but if severe, can result in exposed wounds. In our experience this spotting seems to be a visual stress indicator. We notice the spotting in cases where the animal has taken poorly to their new setup due to exposure or the water temperatures have fluctuated drastically. Having experienced success and failure in the battle, we believe the best method of treating the spotting is to simply address the setup and identify the stressor. We have tried a number of recommended treatment methods but never witnessed any visual or behavioral improvement. After various natural and over-the-counter aquarium treatment recommendations, we saw the best results when correcting the temperature fluctuation and enclosure layout. Recently, we were pleased to share a female Acrochordus javanicus, who had been fighting the spotting off and on over the past few years, had entered blue phase with no signs of spotting for the first time. Although a small victory, it was a victory nonetheless to us.
Now that you’ve got a solid setup and your snake is comfortable, what do you feed a fully aquatic snake? That’s right, fish!
With importers often reporting success with shiners or rosy minnows, a keeper needs to understand these snakes eat. In this area, the Acrochordus javanicus put other snakes to shame. We have personally witnessed adults feeding nightly on large fish multiple nights in a row. Often taking multiple fish in a feeding our best recommendation, for a snake of any size, is to stock a setup with a good-sized school of fish. Although shiners may work for others, we found they simply could not survive the water temperatures so would die off before the snake was interested. The rosy minnows work great for juveniles, but with the quantity required, we wonder about the nutritional benefit. The next recommendation for feeder fish is your pet shop comet or gold fish. Although these are not recommended as a primary food source, they have been known to work for many keepers. The high thiaminase levels in the fish can lead to a thiamine deficiency in snakes. This occurs as a result from the excessive thiaminase breaking down the thiamine required within the snake. Personally, we find offering a variety of fish from mollys, guppies, tilapia to chiclids has been successful. Although we do avoid offering the typical feeder comet or rosy minnows, we will offer them without much concern on the rare occasion.
Our best recommendation would be to source tilapia. They are a fish readily available for aquaponics and will thrive in the necessary aquatic environment. Tilapia can be found as fry, aka small fish, for juveniles but also reach large sizes perfect for adult snakes. If you can maintain a consistent feeder supply the occasional “pet shop feeders” seem acceptable in a pinch. Some keepers have also been successful offering fish filets from time to time. This option comes with a warning of course, as the risk of getting bit or worse, contributing additional stresses on the snake, is high.
As a nocturnal hunter, capturing these snakes hunting or feeding is not an easy task. In our experience, juveniles are not shy about feeding, but adults are another story. The juveniles will begin getting excited at the addition of floating a fish bag. They are often even willing to take feeders directly off tongs without hesitation. Adults on the other hand are much more cautious and have been witnessed venturing out a few hours after new fish have been added to the set up. Acrochordus javanicus hunt using a variety of methods, from the typical ambush to using their tails to fish into crevices. Often using their body to corral the fish, these snakes rely heavily on their sense of touch. With the slightest of touches, the snake hooks around the fish with its entire body; quickly identifying the head and swallowing the fish alive. This process is impressively quick, especially with an adult snake. In a matter of seconds, the fish is seen fighting inside the snake as it moves on to search for its next meal. Seeing this process in action a number of times, we personally don’t wish to take a bite from these snakes. Although we don’t believe the bite from an adult is likely to be too bad, the idea of the file-like scales grinding back and forth while curled teeth designed to hold slippery fish rend the flesh, doesn’t scream “fun event.”
Although the reptile hobby has not entirely embraced the aquatic world, in a way, the time is coming. With the rising interest in natural enclosures and industry support with paludariums, we believe these snakes are finally seeing a potential future. While they may never be the “go to” industry snake, they do have potential to be a stunning conversation piece and display animal in a keeper’s room.
