By Phil Wolf
We’ve all heard the classic phrase, “A person is only as good as their tools.” This phrase can be applied to almost anything in our modern lives. And for this author, it holds very true. My name is Phil Wolf, and I’m a herper.
Over the past 10+ years I have dedicated a piece of myself to developing proper technique and tool usage when handling reptiles. With that being said, another phrase comes to mind, “measure twice, cut once.” We never hear the plumber complain that the pipe leaked because of his faulty wrench or the carpenter complaining that the job was incomplete because of a dull saw blade. Knowing your tools of your trade is paramount, and this should be no different when handling exotic animals.
Most of the individuals reading this typically don’t have a need to use tools with their pets or collections at home. But we as keepers should always be adapting and improving our husbandry and general practices. When most people think of tools revolving around snakes and other reptiles, snake hooks come to mind first. It’s very common for a new snake keeper to purchase a poorly made, heavy snake hook made of steel from their local reptile show. These hooks are typically inexpensive and produced overseas in places like Pakistan.
There’s nothing wrong with these heavy steel hooks. They do the job of handling the snake just fine. But craftsmanship of a product can dramatically increase one’s ease of use. You can chop wood with a hatchet, but an axe would be better suited. Steel hooks, although very strong and long-lasting, are heavy and cumbersome. Through the use of modern lightweight alloys, snake hooks have evolved in the 21st century. Companies like GetHooked, Midwest Tongs, and master hookmaker John Zegel of Georgia Herpetological Supply, produce the best in quality handling equipment that is constantly progressing with innovation.
There are several types of snake hooks designed for different types of snakes. The most common would be referred to as a “U” or “V” shaped hook. These are typically constructed of a durable alloy, and anodized to protect it from elemental wear. The shaft and main body of the hook, is usually hollow aluminum and segmented or fluted for durability. The handles are usually constructed of a rubber over-mold reminiscent or exacting of a golf club handle. Using these rubber golf club handles allows for a more precise grip on the hook, as well as allowing for specific left and right hand use.
Another very common hook style is the Field Hook. A Field Hook is almost identical to a traditional U-shaped hook, with the hook head however being made of a heavier metal, longer in length and L-shaped. This hook is used for flipping over heavy objects in the field such as fallen trees and stumps as well as man made debris. This type of hook is not the easiest when handling snakes due to the 90° angle of the hook head. However, with practice and patience, it can be used successfully. Smaller, and lighter versions, not intended for field use, are frequently used by professionals when double hooking fast and unpredictable species such as Dendroaspis and Bothops.
When keeping neonate/hatchling, juvenile and small species of snakes, a Neo Hook is recommended. The Neo Hook is a small, thin snake hook with a U-shaped head. The shaft and handle are typically solid graphite or composite polymer. Specialty Enclosure Designs even makes a 3-D printed hook for extra small neonates that’s the size of a pen! Neo hooks are typically under 24 inches in total length and only used for small, lightweight and arboreal specimens due to the close proximity of the specimen to the handler’s hand.
There’s also a plethora of specialty hooks designed for specific types of snakes. Python Hooks have a very wide hook head to accommodate fatter pythons and vipers. These wide headed hooks distribute the animal’s weight better so there’s no damage to the snake’s ribs. It also allows the keeper to drag the specimen towards themselves for ease of removal in a deep cage. Adaptations to this style are also found in the new Split-Head design. In lieu of one solid wide piece of U-shaped metal, the hook head is made of two thinner loops that meet at a point forming a heart shape. This allows the hook head to be lighter and have a tip or point on it to aid in scooping.
Travel Hooks are becoming more popular with herpers traveling abroad. These hooks are produced by GetHooked. They are completely aluminum with a short stout foam rubber handle. Usually under 30 inches in total length, they are easier to throw in a backpack or vehicle door when traveling.
There are also several types of collapsible or expanding hooks. These hooks are used for travel and typically fold in half or retract inside themselves. The idea of such a tool is fantastic. Unfortunately, their construction is usually very weak and it is unsafe to use these hooks on a larger or heavier bodied specimen for fear of the hook snapping or breaking. Several companies such as Venom Life Gear are working with these telescoping hooks to try and perfect this style of tool, while still maintaining structural integrity.
Another innovation from GetHooked is the drawer puller. Although not an actual snake hook, this tool uses the shaft and handle of a snake hook with a thin wedge of aluminum in place of the hook head. The tool is used for dragging open drawers in rack systems. Unlike a hook that has a tip on it, the drawer puller distributes the pressure being pulled on the drawer and allows it to be slid open easily, while keeping the handler away at a safe distance. The puller is long enough to be used as an impromptu hook, and can be used as a directional guide on a snake, much like a shepherd’s crook.
Oftentimes with beginners, the question is asked, “what is the most appropriate length for my everyday snake hook?” With the exception of hatchling and juvenile specimens, this question is relevant to the height of the handler, as well as their arm length and the length and girth of the snake they are handling. Taking into consideration certain long and agile species, the handle of the snake hook should be no less than the length of one’s forearm. This will allow the handler to balance the fulcrum of the hook on their index finger and thumb while maintaining the majority of the handle underneath their forearm for support. When done correctly, 80% of the tool is still in front of the handler’s hand maximizing the distance from the specimen.
Typically with new snake handlers, it is recommended they have a minimum of three hooks. Usually there are two primary hooks of similar size and style, with a third hook being used as a backup. In the event that one or both of the primary hooks have to be abandoned due to an unruly specimen, the third hook should be at the ready, and always found handle facing up!
For someone looking for a specific setup, or a unique custom hook, John Zegal, of Georgia Herpetological Supply, hand crafts snake hooks that are tailored to the individual handler. Shaft composition, grip texturing and placement, as well as hook head design, can all be fitted and fabricated to the end user’s needs. This can be extremely helpful for a keeper who focuses on a specific genera or species.
Another popular tool with snake keeping are tongs and pillstroms. Pillstroms are fairly unconventional by today’s standards, but an effective tool when collecting snakes in the field. Pillstroms were originally designed by Medical Doctor Lawrence G. Pillstrom. Much like venom used in medicine today, in the 1950’s, snake venom was at its peak of scientific research. Dr. Pillstrom had been collecting live venomous snake specimens in Arkansas for venom research and was consistently looking for a safer way to capture snakes. In 1954, using an old broom handle and coiled springs from an old refrigerator, he designed a grabbing contraption that would change the way we handle snakes. From that, the Pillstrom tongs were born.
Pillstrom tongs have a long metal shaft with an opposable hook at one end. The other end has a pistol grip with a squeezing trigger. The trigger is attached to a braided metal cable. When the trigger is pressed, the claw at the front closes, grabbing the snake. Because these are made of sharp, ridged metal, extra care must be taken. Snakes could be damaged or killed when too much pressure is applied to the trigger. Because of this, Midwest Tongs has produced their own version of tongs called, the Gentle Giant.
The Gentle Giant Tongs work on the same principle as Pillstroms, however the grabbing claw is wide, curved, and coated in rubber. When the snake is grabbed, it is essentially squished between the claws so the pressure is distributed and no damage is done to the specimen. Due to the wide claw head of the Gentle Giants, a thinner claw design was deployed in the M1 series of tongs. The M1 series allows for the grabbing of a thinner, faster species of snake, such as a Taipan or Krait. This thin design also allows the handler to negotiate tighter obstacles and crevices that a snake may have found itself in.
Midwest Tongs has also designed a set of tongs to be broken down in half. Using high quality alloys and retaining pins, the user can break the tongs in half for storage or transportation without fear of weakening the claw or shaft strength.
Reptile keepers often find themselves performing minor medical practices at home. Whether it’s removing eye caps and stuck shed, or determining the animal’s sex for breeding. We frequently see keepers injuring themselves or the animal by grabbing animals behind the head improperly, when a simple tool such as a restraining tube could be used. Restraining tubes are clear plastic tubes of varying sizes used to contain a snake or lizard to prevent the animal from doing harm to the keeper or to itself. Predominantly used with venomous species, this does not exclude these tubes from being used on uncooperative harmless species. It may take some coaxing on the keeper’s part to lure the specimen into the tube. But the rewards of safe handling outweigh the frustrations. Tubes can also be used in conjunction with other equipment. Using a small zip-tie to secure a snake bag to one end of the tube, allows for safe bagging without your buddy getting bit from holding the bag open.
It’s also very important for a keeper to have a small assortment of accessories for feeding and general husbandry. Regardless of the type of prey item used, a good set of long hemostats or giant tweezers can be purchased online or from a local reptile show. Hemostats allow the keeper to insert a prey item into the animal’s enclosure, while still keeping a safe distance. Hemostats also allow for removal of waste and shed skin without disturbing the animal or rearranging the enclosure.
It’s very important that a keeper be familiar with their tools. Hemostats can appear clumsy at first, but essential when figured out. The most common way of holding large hemostats is with the thumb in the top hole, one’s middle finger in the bottom, and the index finger wrapped around the front of the bottom hole. This allows for support of the tool, as well as ease of operation. A handler needs to practice using hemostats extensively before attempting to use or feed with them, especially with venomous species. Keepers have fumbled with hemostats and it cost them dearly, some even with their life. And while most of the information provided in this article is primarily focused on venomous species, all of these tools can be used safely by anyone wishing to keep reptiles and amphibians in the home. All it takes is dedication and practice to perfect the art of safe handling. We as keepers need to continue to preach safe practicing and good mentorship from everyone in our community. We are never too old to learn a new trick, this author included.
