By Phil Wolf
If you’re reading this magazine, we’re to assume you own, or plan to own, reptiles or amphibians. That being said, there may be a time when one must transport their pet, and if so, what are some of the best ways to do so? My name is Phil Wolf and I’m a herper. For many years, I’ve mentored countless individuals in the safe handling of exotic wildlife. And every year that goes by, I learn more and more tips and tricks on how to be better at our amazing hobby.
One thing that always comes to mind is how to transport our reptiles and amphibians safely. Whether it’s relocating an animal for its safety, or taking your new pet home, we want to transport our precious cargo safely for the health of the animal, as well as to prevent any mishaps. Most reptile keepers are familiar with the common practices of snake bags, and deli style plastic containers. Both of which are tried and true. However, what if your animal has special needs? What if the species at hand is highly aquatic or has specific temperature requirements? What if your species is venomous? It’s always good to have a backup plan, or alternative means.
Assuming your species is harmless, we can start by looking at snake bags and pillowcases. A timeless classic, many a hotel and grandma’s guest room, have lost a few pillowcases to the occasional herper. So why do we use pillowcases for snakes? Pillowcases and cloth bags are ideal for transporting snakes and lizards where space and ventilation are a factor. Fabric bags can be squeezed down to size to accommodate smaller specimens as well as tied shut in a variety of ways. Fabric bags allow for good airflow. Opposed to a container that may retain too much humidity, or not permeate enough oxygen.
However, there are many faults to fabric bags that are commonly overlooked. The most prevalent are the corners of the bag. Most snake bags are made overseas and the stitching is usually subpar. Snakes and lizards will press their nose into the corner of the bag. Over time, this will stretch the stitching. Eventually leading to a hole being made. It may not happen the first, second, or even 10th time the bag is used. But eventually, the stitching will fail. Many keepers have now learned to sew a zipper style line of stitching across the corner of the bag. This makes for a rounded corner internally, eliminating the weak point of the 90° angle and preventing the specimen from burrowing into it.
Evaluating the top, or the opening of the snake bag is also very important. Make sure there are no tears or frays, and if there is a draw string, that the string is not twisted, or falling apart. If tying knots isn’t your specialty, a common zip tie or cable strap works wonders. They can be cut off with a simple nail clipper and provide peace of mind that the tied fabric knot won’t slip loose. To quote master breeder Kris Painschab, “Two zip ties are better than one. And one zip tie is better than none!”
If transporting a venomous reptile in a snake bag, there’s a few more steps one should follow. Remember, the bag is made of fabric, and a snake’s fangs will puncture right through that fabric! Many keepers have been envenomated through a snake bag when they became careless and moved the bag with their hands. Many keepers use dark colored or black fabric bags to aid in the animal’s comfort level. The darkness of the colored bag allows the snake or lizard to feel calm and secure.
That being said, some snakes still see shadows through the bag, or even use their heat pits to “see” the keeper right through the cloth material. When bagging venomous snakes and lizards, a double bagging practice should be deployed. I.E., once the specimen is in the bag, that bag is closed appropriately and placed inside another bag, which is also sealed. And remember, you can never tie the bag tight enough!
The outer bag should be marked with bold writing, “DANGER VENOMOUS REPTILE!” As well as the specimen’s scientific name, common name, and number of animals within. It’s a good idea to mark the outer bag before the animal is placed inside. Bagging venomous snakes is extremely dangerous and should only be performed by individuals trained to do so. Once the venomous reptile is double bagged, it’s a good idea to place the bags inside a hard shelled container. This could be something as simple as a plastic kitchen container with air holes, an empty tackle-box with air holes, or even a ventilated wooden crate. If the container is lockable, even better! And this leads us to “Hott Boxes.”
A Hott Box is a hard-shelled or wooden container specifically labeled and used for transporting venomous reptiles. Oftentimes ornately marked with caution and danger labels, these boxes are used religiously by professional keepers and field collectors. It is not uncommon for a venomous keeper to have two or three different Hott Boxes of different sizes to accommodate the specimen in their collection. These boxes also prove paramount in disaster preparedness such as blizzards and hurricanes.
In some rural areas where human contact with snakes is more prevalent, many have adopted using plastic tubes as retaining vessels. Much like the clear plastic tubes we use in reptile medicine for restraining a snake, these tubes are much larger and typically made of PVC plastic. Pioneered by the African Snakebite Institute (ASI) in South Africa, these tubes are usually non-transparent and closed off at one end. They are very wide in diameter and can be almost a meter in length.
The idea behind this, is that the herper or relocator has provided the snake a dark hole for it to “escape” into; much like the dark colored cloth bags. It may take some convincing on the human’s part, but in theory, the snake slithers into the dark hole, feeling safe that it has evaded its bipedal predator. The open end of the tube is then capped with a threaded lid that also has ventilation holes and a handle. The snake is now safely confined within the tube.
Another popular mode of reptile transportation is the plastic deli style container or cup. Several companies, as well as, breeders produce plastic cups specifically for transporting reptiles and amphibians. Most of these containers have a press sealed lid that is difficult for animals who don’t have thumbs to open.
Many of these containers have perforated lids, or air holes professionally cut along the rim of the container. With smaller species, as well as some invertebrates, several companies have adapted their lids to have a fine mesh cloth sealed into the plastic with animal-safe adhesives. This is due to the species being small enough to escape out of a typical sized air hole.
Usually, a folded paper towel or strip of fabric is placed on the bottom of the container. This is to absorb any urine or feces from the animal, in addition to the animal’s comfort. It is of the opinion of this author that deli cups are typically best for transporting. They are easily cleaned and sanitized, stackable, and provide a fairly safe shield against accidents. It is crucial however to always check for air holes! Accidents happen, and sometimes the deli cup manufacturer overseas has a defect from the factory, and no air holes are provided, unbeknownst to the buyer. Many people have had their brand-new pet suffocate in a deli cup with no air holes, as they are walking around the reptile show post purchase.
Regardless if the species is dangerous or not, when transporting deli cups or containers in a vehicle, it is a good idea to place said containers in a larger box or container. In the event of a traffic collision, or unforeseen weather, the animals are double protected. Regardless of the duration of transport, it is never a good idea to place transport containers in the storage compartment of a vehicle, in direct sunlight, or in a rapid change of temperature.
If the deli style containers are transporting Venomous species, more precautions should be taken. The words “DANGER VENOMOUS REPTILE!” Should be placed directly on the lid of the container, as well as the animal’s scientific name, common name and quantity of animals within. Extreme care should be taken when using deli style containers with venomous animals. Containing venomous animals in this style is one of, if not THE most dangerous aspects of keeping Venomous in captivity. Due to the close proximity of the keeper’s hands in relation to the animal. Hemostats, tongs, and large tweezers should be used to attach and remove the container’s lid.
Once the venomous animal is secured within the plastic container, it’s a common practice to place vinyl tape (electrical tape) around the rim of the container, or across the lid, preventing any chance of the lid opening. If you think there’s enough tape applied, put some more! Tape is cheap compared to medical bills or one’s life!
After the container is securely taped and properly labeled, the container should be placed within another vessel, such as a rigid plastic box, or wooden crate referenced previously. If such a container is not available at the time, the taped container could be placed inside a snake bag or pillow case to prevent any escape. Be mindful of the duration in which the deli container is inside the fabric bag. This practice cuts ventilation and oxygen levels in half. And the animal inside could potentially suffocate despite both the container and the bag being porous.
A trend becoming ever so popular with field herpers, is the use of a plastic bucket with a screw-on lid. Five and/or seven gallon buckets can be purchased at any hardware store for little to no money. They are incredibly durable, easy to clean, sanitize, and provide rugged containment for more defensive species. Several companies produce a threaded, screw-on bucket lid for easily securing and removing. The threaded lid set has a press-on tapped rim that simply pops onto the plastic bucket. The actual lid then threads inside the rim, sealing the bucket. Air holes can be drilled in the lid or the bucket’s body, and with some proper hole placement, a simple cable lock can be run through the rim to prevent unwanted opening of the bucket.
Several companies online offer a “snake lid.” This lid is intended specifically for use with venomous reptiles. These lids are typically bright red in color and have a clear, key lockable window. A snake or lizard can be slid through the window, or the window can simply be used as such, to see the contents inside. These buckets can also be used as a secondary containment for deli cups, snake bags, or even plastic jars.
There are several bucket dividers and caddies purchasable online. These dividers make compartments within the bucket so that smaller containers or equipment can be sectioned off safely from other containers. The bucket also sits comfortably on the seat of a car, and can even be seat-belted in place by running the seatbelt through the carry handle of the bucket. The most crucial aspect of using a bucket is proper signage. Because these buckets are commonly used in a household manner, it is imperative that the bucket be marked as a snake container! Several stickers can be bought on Amazon stating, “DANGER VENOMOUS REPTILE!” Or “Danger! Snake Transport Container.” If not using the bucket for venomous animals, there are other stickers available such as, “Caution!” or “Live Animals!”
Let’s say the animal you’re transporting is highly aquatic, or needs high aeration. Most amphibians can be transported in a plastic container using damp sphagnum moss, or wet paper towels in lieu of dry paper towels. However, wet paper towels are not always ideal. They have a tendency to move to one side of the container, and become soiled very quickly.
If transporting with water, a taller container with less water is optimal so that water doesn’t slosh or splash high enough to exit the air holes on the top of the container. If transporting tadpoles, pollywogs, or aquatic newts, a small, battery powered aerator can be found at most pet shops. Despite being designed for tropical fish; these aerators will provide sufficient oxygenation of the water for an extended transport trip or in the event of a major power outage.
Depending on the time of year, and elements at hand, it’s always beneficial to have a backup temperature agent. A long drive in summer when the dashboard reads 100°F, grab a cold pack from the freezer. Taking a short trip across town when your power is out after a snow storm, pack some hand warmers or heat packs for your animals for the drive. Do your best to try and maintain living temperatures for the species at hand. Rapid changes in temperature and humidity can cause respiratory issues that may not be visible for some time.
No matter how you transport reptiles and amphibians, do your best to think outside of the box. Make sure they’re mentally and physically comfortable. Try to be pragmatic, and think of scenarios that could help prevent any issues. Remember, you don’t put your seatbelt on right before the car crash, at that point, it’s too late.
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