Collared Lizards In Captivity

By Brandon J. Louth DVM Candidate 2021

The collared lizard, encompassing the genus Crotaphytus, is starting to rise in popularity in the pet trade. As captive breeding and husbandry knowledge has allowed for more availability and better care for this species in captivity, their vast variety in colors and care similar to a bearded dragon has made several owners acquire them as pets. There are currently nine known species with five being native to the United States and only four found in Mexico, with two being threatened and endangered. (Hammerson, 2007) Various state laws; limiting collection, prohibiting sales, or even preventing breeding, protect many of these species. It is important to know the laws for the species you are interested in and the state you live in before acquiring one.

The collared lizard ranges throughout the Southwest United States and into Mexico living in a warm desert climate. Preferring mountainous or hilly slopes with large rock outcroppings or downed branches and brush to perch up on for basking.  The collared lizards are known to be pure insectivores, which is part of the carnivore family. Despite the name they can also chase down and eat smaller lizards on two legs reaching speeds of 16 mph. (Snyder, 1962) This article will cover key points on why to choose a captive bred collared lizard over a wild caught one. As well as their husbandry needs, including temperatures, lighting, humidity, feeding and enclosures. In addition to a brief overview of their breeding process including durations and processes needed to be successful.

Captive VS Wild: the Good, the Bad and the Ugly

Having several native species in the United States, it is important to get the proper paperwork and documentation with your collared lizard when you purchase it, either being a collection permit if wild caught or an invoice/contract from a breeder proving it is captive bred. The most common species is the Eastern Collared Lizard, Crotaphytus collaris. For this species there are some states that allow the commercial collection of wild caught specimens, while in others it is illegal to collect and sell wild caught individuals and some states even prohibit the sale of the progeny, such as Arizona. Other species such as the Great Basin Collared Lizard, Crotaphytus bicinctores, has more states that prohibit the sale then allow it, so it is important to get the proper paperwork or know where the ones you look to purchase are coming from.. Moreover, other native species such as the Baja Collared Lizard, Crotaphytus vestigium, and Sonoran Collared Lizard Crotaphytus nebrius, can be possessed, but are listed as non-commercial species in the states they are native to and cannot be sold, bartered, or traded in any state. Finally, there is a native species of collared lizard called the Reticulated Collared Lizard, Crotaphytus reticulatus, which is a ‘Black Listed” threatened species that cannot be sold. 

With the breakdown of native species above out of the way, we get into the bad and ugly side of getting a wild caught versus a captive bred Collared Lizard. To begin, the average lifespan of wild Collared Lizards is only 4-6 years, while in captivity you see 10-12 years in captive bred animals. All wild caught Collared Lizards should be quarantined and dewormed in addition to being eased into captivity. Sadly, most sold in pet stores and some reptile shows tend to be wild caught and have NOT been put through this process. Leading to the misleading mindset that Collared Lizards do not do well in captivity, since they would then have GI parasites or other illnesses and not thrive long term only to pass away. 

However if captive bred you do not need to quarantine or deworm for parasites (unless a feeder source has given them some) and overall is a lot healthier and more likely to thrive. Moreover, with a wild caught Collared Lizard you do not get the genetic history, have any knowledge of previous illness or exposure, as well as the uncertainty about the exact age (unless it is a juvenile). Whereas through a reputable breeder you will be provided with all of this information. 

If you should take anything away from this section it should be to avoid wild caught Collared Lizards and seek out a breeder for a healthier and longer living lizard. Ask the breeder if they can sell them where you are located and know your local laws since they are native to the United States.

Husbandry Needs

Temperatures

Collared Lizards are a desert species that loves to perch up and bask during the day. Ideal temperatures for their basking spot should be between 95-105 degrees Fahrenheit avoiding anything higher as they have been proven to retreat from the basking site at higher temperatures. This will allow them to get the proper UVB exposure and temperatures to allow for digestion of their food. The cooler parts of the enclosure should maintain a minimum of 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day. Nighttime temperatures should be maintained between 70-79 degrees Fahrenheit to allow for digestion through the night and preventing any induction of a stupor or pseudo-brumation.

Lighting

Since they are a desert species, Collared Lizards need a high output of UVB lighting to allow for their needed D3 production and to maintain proper health. In addition to UVB, a basking area is needed. Depending on the source used, UVB can be included in this bulb. A list of some bulbs below meet the required needs of UVB for these lizards.

Humidity

Even though Collared Lizards are a dry climate species, they still require a certain amount of humidity to allow for proper shedding as well as helping to maintain hydration and overall health. Their ideal humidity should range between 20-40% unless they have a medical predisposition for a shedding issue that requires more humidity to allow for sheds to happen properly.

Feeding

Being a pure insectivore means Collared Lizards main source of food should either be crickets or dubia roaches. If accessible grasshoppers can be an acceptable main source of food, however, avoid any wild feeders at all costs to prevent infection of an unwanted parasite or toxins.  Neonates should be fed pinhead or ¼ inch dubia roaches, while babies and juveniles should be fed ½ inch crickets or dubia roaches as a main food source. Adults can be fed ¾ inch to large crickets or dubia roaches as the bulk of their diet. Due to size, fat content, or overall nutrient breakdown, the following food items can be fed as snacks, but should NOT be fed as a main source of food. This list includes mealworms, superworms, hornworms, waxworms, feeder lizards, and pinkie mice. Greens can be offered no more than once weekly, but know that Collared Lizards lack the GI flora to have any benefit from greens nutritionally unless they are dusted with a supplementation and thus should be avoided as a main source of food. 

Enclosures

This is one of the most important and commonly incorrect aspects of care for Collared Lizards in the reptile community. It is proven that adult Collareds REQUIRE a minimum sized enclosure with a floor space of 48 inches by 18 inches to reduce stress and exhibit natural behaviors. This equals a standard 75-gallon enclosure and since Crotaphytus are known to cohabitate in groups of one male and multiple females this is ideal for one male and two females. TWO MALES SHOULD NEVER BE HOUSED TOGETHER DUE TO THE RISK OF FIGHTING. It then is shown that for every 25 gallons (or equivalent) and larger, another female can be added without additional stress. Babies and juveniles can temporarily be housed in smaller enclosures no smaller than a 40-gallon breeder, but will need an adult enclosure by 8-12 months of age.

Enclosures should also have a fresh source of water daily. An option of a moving water source may entice drinking more often. In addition, a nice sized hide that can fit the entire lizard inside is ideal. Having plenty  of options for enrichment allows for a happier and healthier lizard with multiple basking perches, logs, rocks, branches, bridges, and other objects that allow for climbing or potential hunting. Moreover, the ideal substrate for collared lizards is “WASHED” play sand. It is important to have a washed source that has had sharp silicates removed. Other acceptable substrates include ecoearth, a mixture of play sand and ecoearth, floor tile, or large rocks that cannot fit into their mouths.

Quick Insight Into Breeding

Brumation

One of the most dangerous processes needed with breeding Collared Lizards is a 3-5 month brumation aka hibernation process to allow for the proper hormonal levels necessary to breed. Before this process the breeder animals should be prepped and healthy since this can easily be a death sentence if not done properly.

Breeding

Female Collareds get a very cool gravid blush where females get red patterns and stripes that are caused by an increase in progesterone at the beginning of egg production. Normally, once mated or at the first signs of blushing, it takes 21-28 days before females lay their eggs.

Eggs

Once laid, depending on the temperatures used that can help determine the neonates sex, the eggs should hatch between 40-60 days. With higher temperatures in their range having shorter incubation times and lower temperatures having longer incubation times. 

References:

Hammerson, GA, Lavin P, Mendoza QF. 2007. Crotaphytus reticulatus. The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species 2007: e.T64012A12735138. http://dx.doi.org/10.2305/IUCN.UK.2007.RLTS.T64012A12735138.en. 

Snyder RC. 1962. Adaptations for bipedal locomotion of lizards. Am. Zool. 2: 191±203.